To the Ruins of Nalanda University. 11 Nov 2024.

Decided to get a refund on my 13 Nov train ticket.

Getting the refund because, first, I don’t want to reach Patna so late at 620pm.

Secondly, the hotels in Rajgir seem to have a very early check out timing. The first hotel I went to, showed 930am. The current hotel that I am staying in now, Hotel Holiday Inn, has a check out of 10am. My train departs only at 310pm. I don’t want to be loitering around for 5 hours, there aren’t much near the Rajgir train station.

Wow. I was not expecting the crowds at the train counters at 730am.

I still decided to queue up since I would only be heading to Nalanda later at 830am.

When the queuing got quite intense with people trying to buy the train ticket for the train that has arrived and going to depart at 805am, they were squeezing near the counter, body to body.

And when it was my turn, I had to quickly shove my hand with my ticket through the opening, fighting off other hands trying to get into the opening.

In the midst of all this, the previous customer in front was trying to get his Rupee coin out.

Since my hand was already inside the opening, and not willing to give up my chance, I helped push out the Rupee coin for the previous customer. Thus, winning the tussle of the hands.

In the midst of all this, keeping my left hand in my pocket to protect my phone and money from being pickpocketed.

In the end, the counter staff told me to come back later.

Would try to come back before 310pm today, so that it is more than 48 hours before my scheduled train on 13 Nov, 310pm for a greater refund.

What an experience!!

By the way, this 805am train to Patna is the one that I originally wanted, but cannot get a ticket. Doubt I would want to fight to get a ticket on this train seeing the chaos around this morning.

The train departing at 805am was at the station. So, I quickly entered to take a quick shot of the carriage. I suppose it is 2 seats on the left and 3 seats on the right, facing each other.

This would be the carriage that I sit in if I were to take the train from Rajgir to Patna on 13 Nov.

The train counter was totally empty after the 805am train departed.

Thinking there is a queue at the counter, as there were some people there, I waited.

A local man then talked to me. After chatting awhile, he then told me that there is no queue. The people there are waiting for 10am to buy AC (air conditioned class) train tickets. At 11am, the sleeper class train tickets are then open. The CC (Chair Car) tickets can be bought anytime.

So, he then helped me clear the people and informed the counter staff that I am cancelling my ticket.

A form also needs to be filled up to cancel the ticket. The local man also lent me his pen to fill up the form.

I got a refund of 580 Rupees. Cancellation fee of 190 Rupees.

When everything was done, I asked to take a photo with him, SD Anand, for his help. It was much appreciated.

We exchanged contacts, so that I could WhatsApp him the photo.

Taking the local bus from Rajgir to Nalanda Village, which is at the intersection, to get to the Ruins of Nalanda University. 25 Rupees.

My Tanga Driver told me yesterday that it is 40 Rupees for this bus ride.

The 11km journey took about half an hour.

Auto-rickshaw ride from the intersection of Nalanda Village to the Ruins of Nalanda University. 25 Rupees?

The driver wanted 50 Rupees but I asked for 20 Rupees. After hesitating for a short while, he agreed. Along the way, he asked for 50 Rupees again, to which I was ready to get off and walk the 2 km in. Reluctantly, he just accepted it and we continued on the journey.

When we reached the Ruins of Nalanda University, he insisted on 50 Rupees. I had prepared 25 Rupees for him. I then argued with him that, it was agreed to be 20 Rupees. The other locals on the ride, I think, also talked to him.

After a few mins, I was preparing to just give him the 50 Rupees and be off, but, he accepted the 25 Rupees and left instead.

My Tanga Driver told me yesterday that this ride is 20 Rupees.

Entrance fee for the Ruins of Nalanda University is 600 Rupees for foreigners. Quite pricey for local standards.

When I first learnt about Nalanda University while I was learning more about Buddhism, I had a wish to come and study Buddhism in Nalanda University. I was in my teens then.

I only found out much much later, I think in my late 20s or early 30s, that Nalanda University was no more.

At the gate, I was approached by a local guide, who offered 500 Rupees to bring me around.

From my guide book, it is suggested to get a local guide to better understand the ruins, it states that rates are 150 Rupees for the guides. Considering that the prices might have increased, I was willing to get a guide for 300 Rupees.

So, I declined this first guide, preparing to google and find out more about the ruins myself. This first guide then lowered his price to 400 Rupees.

After entering the gates, a second guide approached me for 400 Rupees. I told him directly that, if I accepted 400 Rupees, I would go back to the first guide, giving him a hint. But he didn’t decrease his rate of 400 Rupees.

Thus, I was preparing to gather information on my own.

Later, I did get a guide.

Just thought a picture here would start off my walk around the ruins.

At this location, a local guide approached me. I told him it is ok, since it is too expensive to get a guide. He then offered 300 Rupees for his tour, which I agreed.

I have to say that I learnt a lot from his explanations.

There are 11 monasteries in this site for Buddhist Studies. The 11 monasteries are side by side in a row. The next row are of temples and stupas.

The whole Nalanda University in the past spanned many kilometres by many kilometres. This ruins site was for Buddhist Studies. The other schools/faculties of Nalanda University are located elsewhere, kilometres away.

The captions of the following photos are based on what I recalled from the guide’s explanation.

Comparing the building material of the past vs today. On the left is still the original building material, compared to the collapsing modern cement used on the right.

In each room, there is a small room/slot for meditation, since meditation is one of the main subjects. This hole/slot is really small, I had to crouch down to take this photo. There seems to be a small room inside.

In the past, this platform would be covered and lessons would be conducted here. There are NO classrooms per se in Nalanda. During the rainy season, classes would be held on such covered platforms. During the hot and winter seasons, the classes would be held under trees, where the professor would be sitting under the tree and the students around him.

The slab of stone in front has a mineral called Mica, which reflects. I could see the glittering reflection when I was standing there in person, the photo doesn’t show the glittering. This reflective mineral is a means of brighten the room, where the moon light would be reflected into the room via the door.

Deep well for drinking in the monastery. Each monastery has such a deep well.

This is an auditorium. The professors would be seated on the steps above at the back of the photo. The students would be sitting on the floor in the middle. The performers/artists have their rooms on the right side of the photo. The performance or lecture would be held on the foreground, on the stage.

Sariputra Stupa. Sariputra is one of the 2 chief disciples of the Buddha. 2600 years ago, Sariputra, supposedly, was born and died in the location of this stupa. During the Buddha’s time, Sariputra would be teaching in this location to the locals, to the beggars, to the children. This practice continued on even after his death. Until the 5th century, a king donated for monasteries and temples to be build, which was how Nalanda University started, 1600 years ago.

Sariputra Stupa is huge and massive. But there are also many smaller stupas around. These smaller stupas are after the deaths of the professors of the university. In this site, it is the Buddhist university, so the students and professors are all monks. The students, after completing their studies might go back to being lay followers and have families.

Besides Buddhist studies in Nalanda University, it is also famous for statue carvings. Mahayana Buddhist started the art of depicting the Buddha as a statue. Before such time, there are no Buddha Statues. The Buddha and his teachings were represented by icons, like the Dhamma Wheel, his footprint, lotus flower, the Bodhi tree, etc.

Shortly after this photo of the Buddhist carvings, my guide told me that the tour had ended. I did learn a lot from his explanations, so instead of 300 Rupees, I gave him 400 Rupees.

While on his guided tour earlier, one of the workers came to ask for tips. I usually don’t give any tips, but seeing he was a worker, and no beggars around, I gave him 50 Rupees.

After that, a guard also came to me for tips, being fair, I also gave him 50 Rupees.

Then, the word seems to have spread, other workers came to find me along my guided tour, to whom, each, I gave 20 rupees subsequently. Luckily, I have stocked up lots of small change through the days in India.

After my guided tour ended, I was wary of the workers working on the other side of the ruins, and thinking whether they heard of getting tips from this Singaporean man.

The rest of the photos were taken when I was exploring the rest of the ruins.

Site map of the Ruins of Nalanda University.

The rooms for the students and the deep well for drinking in the monastery.

View of a monastery with the rooms for the students and the centre space for the kitchen and deep well for drinking.

In each of the 11 Monastery in this Buddhist Studies site, there are 34 rooms for students. 1 student, 1 room. Usually in the centre would be a well for drinking. Sometimes, the kitchen is also in the centre.

Back to Nalanda Village to take the bus back to Rajgir.

The auto-rickshaw driver accepted my fare of 30 Rupees. He was initially asking for 50 Rupees. Other passengers also got on the ride to the main road.

Local bus from Nalanda Village to Rajgir. 25 Rupees

Being the boring person when it comes to meals, I came back to Restaurant Magadh Spices.

For Lunch, ordered the Chicken Butter Masala 185 Rupees, 2 Rotis 10 Rupees each, a Plain Paratha 15 Rupees. The picture shows a Roti and the Plain Paratha. Added another Roti later.

Since I planned to have a more chill day, for dinner, I ordered a chicken chowmein 150 Rupees, packeted.