In the end, I visited the Maha Bodhi Temple again on the morning of 10 Nov 2024, to remind myself once more about, NOT blindly practicing the teachings of the Buddha, but instead practicing while reflecting again and again, testing and testing whether the teachings of the Buddha does help one’s life and achieve happiness.
I did 3 rounds of circumambulation around the Maha Bodhi Temple before coming back to my guest house.
I tried getting an Uber which showed 196Rupees for the ride, but to no avail.
When this first auto-rickshaw driver came to me, and accepted my quote of 300 Rupees, I was pleasantly surprised. There was no further bargaining. So very nice.
He was also a comfortable and steady driver. Not speeding along. The 16km journey took an hour, but I enjoyed the ride a lot.
I was enjoying the scenery. And along the way, the driver even explained the sights.
At Manpur Bus Stand, he even tried to help me find the correct bus to board. It was much appreciated.
I gave him 330 Rupees. Was even contemplating giving 400 Rupees but the chaos at Manpur Bus Stand didn’t allow me much time to think.
Expected 2.5hours.
I had missed the earlier full bus, and thought I would need to wait another 30mins for this bus to depart. But, after just 10mins, the bus was full and departed.
Before the bus departed, I was asking the locals on the bus, and they all told me that it is 150 Rupees.
When I paid the attendant 200 Rupees, I was expecting to get back 50 Rupees. However, the attendant told me that he owes me 80 Rupees and signalled that it is written on the back of the ticket. He would come back and return the 80 Rupees.
After sometime, I asked him again for the change, when he said that he don’t have the change, I then passed him 20 Rupees, and he returned me 100 Rupees, and tore off the 80 written on the back of the ticket.
Interesting system.
Drama on the bus, halfway on the journey:
We reached a stop which I thought was Rajgir on my map. The elderly passenger beside me also thought it is Rajgir. He is also heading to Rajgir.
So, with my big backpack and big sling bag, I squeezed through the crowded bus to get off.
Near the exit, seeing that not many passengers were getting off, I asked again the other passengers if this was Rajgir. Rajgir is supposed to be a main stop. They signed no, it is the next stop.
So, with my big backpack and big sling bag, I had to squeeze back into the rear of the crowded bus.
The elderly passenger beside me earlier, also realised that it is not Rajgir and went back to our original seats. But, of course, our seats were taken by other passengers, a mother and her 3 children.
He then argued with those seated there, even hinting to me to get back to those seats. While at the very rear of the bus, I shook my head and smiled.
The mother then argued with him. This went on back and forth for a good 10 mins, before the daughter gave up a space for him to sit.
The passenger on the very last row, squeezed to the side and allowed me to squeeze in between.
In the chaos of India, there is much kindness.
In the end, I stood up as I felt I was burdening the other passengers. Another passenger then sat at where I left.
Passed by the Rajgir Tourist Information Center while walking from the bus stand to the railway station.
At first, I was thinking if they would ask for tips. But they didn’t, and the staff gave me the information that I needed for Rajgir.
I am staying in Holiday Inn!!
The person first quoted 800 Rupees, then I negotiated to 750 Rupees for a night, staying at least 2 nights. I foresee myself staying 3 nights, to comfortably visit the sites without rushing.
Hotel Holiday Inn is beside the train station.
After checking in to my Holiday Inn, I headed to the train station.
I wanted a certain train and timing but on the app, it was totally sold out for not only 13th Nov 2024, but the whole stretch. So, I was wondering if I could get the tickets directly from the train station.
The person in the counter told me that that train does not allow people to buy short journeys, that’s why it is not open to purchase.
I had to then choose this other train timing which would result in me reaching Patna at 620pm, at night.
The good thing is that I only paid 770Rupees.
It is a local train. 3rd Class and sleeper are the only choices. 3rd Class is with air conditioning, and sleeper is the local non air conditioning carriages. Let’s see how that goes.
Since it was only 2pm, I decided to do some sightseeing that day. And decided to venture to the furthest location, which is Vulture Peak (Gridhrakuta). It is about 5pm south of Rajgir town.
Asking around the train station, I found out that I needed to take a tanga (horse carriage) to Vulture Peak (Gridhrakuta). And the tangas are based at the bus stand.
This driver asked for 10 Rupees which I agreed. But gave him 20 Rupees instead. It is only a 1km distance from the train station to the bus stand.
I agreed to 600 Rupees knowing that I was overcharged. The shared tanga ride from the bus stand to the foot of mountain, Gridhrakuta, is only 50 Rupees.
But, I still agreed to the 600 Rupees, because the driver could speak basic English. The first driver that I approached couldn’t speak any English. This driver approached me with 800 Rupees first, then reduced to 600 Rupees.
The driver’s told me his name is Dinesh Kumar, and his horse is called Nagaran.
During the ride, the driver used simple English to explain certain things.
He offered to bring me to Nalanda tomorrow, in an Autorickshaw for 800 Rupees, which I declined. The local bus to Nalanda is very cheap and I had the whole of tomorrow for Nalanda.
After that, he then told me the costs for the local bus to Nalanda, which I found very useful.
All in all, though I was overcharged, I do appreciate his good service and him trying his best to explain things in English. So, no complaints.
The horse carriage was quite bumpy. Not a totally comfortable ride.
At the foot of the mountain, the driver told me to remember the horse’s name, Nagaran. And told me to take a photo of the name of the horse. I suppose you find the carriage by the name of the horse, not by the driver.
I told him that I would need 1.5hours to go up and down.
I hiked up to Vulture Peak (Gridhrakuta) and Vishwa Shanti Stupa, then took the ropeway down.
The below link is a video of my hike up and taking the ropeway down.
https://www.relive.cc/view/vJOK58XVNwq
Vulture Peak is frequently mentioned in Buddhist texts, in both the Pali Canon as well as Mahayana Sutras.
One of the famous sutra, the Lotus Sutra, is supposedly preached at Vulture Peak. And thus, there is a shrine of the Nichiren Buddhist Sect (Soka follows the Nichiren Buddhist Sect) built there too. Do feel free to ask me if you want to know the details of what the Nichiren Buddhist (or Soka) believes in.
Decided to buy a drink from this lady. I gave 20 Rupees since I know that’s the price. She then told me 50 Rupees, which I declined, and took back my money. Then she suddenly said “sum sip” which is 30 in Thai. I understood it and paid the 30 Rupees. Seems like quite a lot of Thais come here.
Jivaka was a famous royal doctor under King Bimbisara. Jivaka built this Jivakarama vihara monastery and donated it to the sangha (community of monks and nuns).
The Buddha is said to have been treated once in this monastery, after having been injured by Devadatta.
Story:
King Bimbisara was one of the earliest patron of the Buddha. He had met the Buddha before his enlightenment, and was already impressed by him.
Sadly, his son, Ajatasattu, plotted against King Bimbisara and jailed the old King. This is the ruins of that jail.
When the new King Ajatasattu finally repented, and wanted to let King Bimbisara out, it was too late. King Bimbisara had just died in the jail.
After that, King Ajatasattu became a big patron of the Buddha.
On the way back to town, I asked my Tanga driver to drop me off at Venu Van instead. I would visit Venu Van first, then walk the 1 km back to town.
During the Buddha’s time, King Bimbisara donated Veluvanna (or Bamboo grove) to the Buddha and his Sangha (community of monks and nuns).
The Buddha, stayed at Veluvanna for several of the rainy season retreats.
Today, Venu Van (Veluvanna) is changed into a recreational park for the locals.
Just around the corner from Venu Van, was the Ajatasattu (Ajatashatru) Stupa, which my Tanga driver told me about. So, I made a slight detour there.
I think because Rajgir is a small town, people seem nicer.
Locals sitting around chit chatting.
My first actual meal for the day. I wasn’t feeling hungry for most of the day, even though I only had some biscuits in the morning and totally forgot about lunch.
Wasn’t really hungry but thought I should still eat something.
Wanted to order something heavy, so ordered the Chicken Fried Rice 160 Rupees.
Big portion and was delicious. I finished every single grain of rice.
Was intending to walk the 1km. Then asked this driver, and he first quoted 50 Rupees. I told him 20 Rupees or I just walk.
When I was heading off, he called me back and accepted my 20 Rupees.
What a very tiring day!! I was not expecting this day to be so tiring. Glad to have seen some of Rajgir’s sights though, which means the next 2 days could be at a much slower pace.
Will travel 