Exploring Sarnath. 2-3 Nov 2024.

Visiting Thai Buddhist Monk with the Dhamekh Stupa at the background.

Contents

  • Background and Significance of Sarnath
  • Dhamekh Stupa
  • Archaeological Museum of Sarnath
  • Narration of my trip to Sarnath

Background and Significance of Sarnath

The deer park at Sarnath is, supposedly, where Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon, the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta. The name of the Sutta translates to “Turning of the Dhamma wheel” which signifies the start of the spread of the teachings of the Buddha (The teachings of the Buddha is called the Dhamma.)

The deer park at Sarnath is also, supposedly, where Gautama Buddha gave his second sermon as well. The second sermon is the Anatta-lakkhana Sutta, which means “The sermon of non-self”.

And because it is a deer park where Gautama Buddha gave his first and second sermons, images of Buddha are occasionally accompanied by deer.

The Dhamekh Stupa at Sarnath is to commemorate the place where Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon.

Since Sarnath is one of the 4 main Buddhist sites, where Buddhists are encouraged to visit, many temples and monasteries are set up around the Dhamekh Stupa area. You may visit these other temples and monasteries when you are in the area.

Dhamekh Stupa

I visited Dhamekh Stupa on 3rd November 2024 at about 9am.

This dog came to me when I just entered the grounds of the Dhamekh Stupa.
The remains of the Asokan Pillar.
Thai Buddhists visiting the Dhamekh Stupa. I think the monk is giving a teaching here.
Notice the hand and metal bowl at the base of the photo, where some beggars are trying their best. I think beggars are strictly curbed here in Sarnath, which explains why I don’t see many beggars (openly) in Sarnath.
Another Thai Buddhist group chanting. I think they are chanting the first sermon, the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta.
The Dhamekh Stupa.
A squirrel happily eating away. It was only about 3 metres away from where I sat.

Further behind, a man and a boy was sitting at the back fence on the grounds of the Dhamekh Stupa, who I think aren’t really tourist visiting the site, based on their behaviour. They were looking at people and just sitting there at the back fence, instead of viewing the stupa. I could see them looking in my direction.

I had intended to do some meditation but decided not to proceed, just in case, they are thieves and will take advantage of my meditation session. So, I packed up and walked away to see the rest of the place.

A group of Vietnamese Buddhists chanting.
At the back of the grounds of the Dhamekh Stupa, beyond the fence is a small zoo. And I think they intentionally placed the deer here since it was a deer park when Gautama Buddha gave his first and second sermons. There was a man offering grass to feed the deer, for a fee or tip, I believe.

Archaeological Museum of Sarnath

Usually I don’t bother much with museums unless there is something really special to see, but since the entrance fee to this museum is only 5Rupees, or about S$0.08, why not visit the museum.

Archaeological Museum of Sarnath

Your bags and mobile phones must be stowed in a locker before you enter the museum. Which means no photos allowed in the museum.

I actually lost my combined ticket of Dhamekh Stupa and the Archaeological Museum of Sarnath. So, I went to buy another ticket with a 100rupee note, planning to get change. Instead, the ticket counter man decided to just give me the museum ticket for free, after finding out that I had lost my combination ticket, instead of finding change for a 100rupees note.

Narration of my trip to Sarnath

Arrived at my Sarnath accommodation, Mayur Paying Guest House, at about 3:20pm on 2nd November 2024. It is 680Rupees for a night, no air conditioning, only a very powerful fan.

Entrance to Mayur Guest House
My bedroom at Mayur Guest House
My toilet in Mayur Guest House.

After settling in, I headed out. I plan to visit the main sites, the Dhamekh Stupa and the Archaeological Museum of Sarnath the next day. So, this first day was just to walk around, gather information about the sites and also to ask about a light show that the host of my guest house told me about.

Firstly, walking around, I was surprised that weren’t a lot of beggars around in Sarnath, because I remember that there were lots of beggars in Bodhgaya, the place where Gautama Buddha gained enlightenment.

Then after the whole visit, I realise it might be because the beggars were curbed here in Sarnath. So, the beggars have to find other means to beg, like asking for money under fences discreetly. (See the above photo when I visited the Dhamekh Stupa, where a small metal bowl and a small hand reached out from under some photos.)

Entry prices for the grounds of the Dhamekh Stupa.
Entry prices for Archaeological Museum of Sarnath.
Details of the light show which is shone onto the Dhamekh Stupa. It is 200Rupees for foreigners on a weekend. Today is a Saturday. The light show starts at 7pm and ends at 730pm. You can enter the grounds from 630pm onwards. The light show is a brief version of the life of the Buddha and a small part about King Asoka. Narrated in Hindi though.

I decided to walk around first before deciding to watch this light show. I am keen to watch the light show, but was a bit concerned that I would need to walk back to my hotel in the dark.

Thai Buddhist Monastery. I got lucky, it was closing at 5pm and I entered at about 450pm.
Thai Buddhist Monastery.
Walking around, I was looking for food but I didn’t want to eat at a restaurant. I wanted to try something more local and yet not a roadside street stall. This was what I found which satisfied the above.

I ordered by pointing to a picture. Since the menu was in Hindi and google translate didn’t give a good idea of the food since I don’t recognise the names of the food.

The vegetable burger was really good and delicious, to the point, that I am considering going back and having it again. And luckily, at the time of writing this post (which is the afternoon of the next day), I seem to be surviving.

The burger AND the small drink costs me 35 Rupees or about S$0.52. Wow!! I was expecting them to overcharge me since I don’t know Hindi, and wouldn’t really know if they overcharged me. I was very pleasantly surprised by this. Comparing this to some places I visited, where the locals would openly overcharge me.

After the meal, I walked back to the area around the Dhamekh Stupa.

Seems like a night market just beside the Dhamekh Stupa.
Mulgandhakuti Vihara. Still open at night.
The Dhamekh Stupa at night, from outside the grounds.
After walking around, at 6pm, I decided to just buy the ticket for the light show and wait for it to start at 7pm.
Getting ready for the light show.
Starting of the light show.
From the light show.
A beautiful lit up Buddha Statue.
This is the same Buddha image as above. Taken the next day. Just as beautiful in the day.
Walking back after the light show. Luckily it is well lit.
Had a 10 rupee chai before reaching my hotel.
The chai stall. I spoke too soon about having a brightly lit way back to the hotel. Just after I finished my chai, there was a blackout, thus the darkness of the chai stall. And, I had to walk the short way back in darker circumstances.

The next morning on 3rd Nov 2024, I went to buy my combination ticket of both the grounds of the Dhamekh Stupa and the Archaeological Museum of Sarnath. 300+5 = 305Rupees in total.

I then visited the grounds of the Dhamekh Stupa. (Details in the above section.)

On the grounds of the Dhamekh Stupa, I was talking to a Tibetan monk (from the Gelugpa sect). And after asking for food recommendations, he pointed out a Tibetan restaurant further down the road.

Friend’s Corner Tibetan Restaurant.

Due to the many Tibetans refugees in India, Tibetan food is generally quite good in India.

Ordered the non-veg momo, 100rupees.
Then later added a non-veg chowmien, 120rupees.

Wow, the portion of the chowmien was huge. So, I asked for the remaining noodles to be packeted and I would eat it for dinner.

Along the way back to the Archaeological Museum of Sarnath, a beggar boy carrying a small infant came asking for money. I gently ignored him.

He continued his pursuit. And then he changed and asked for a chapati instead, pointing to my packet of chowmien. He persisted, while I ignored. At the gates of the Archaeological Museum of Sarnath, he gently took away the packet of chowmien from my hand. I didn’t pursue it and just let him have it.

At the gate of the Archeological Museum of Sarnath, I realised that I had lost my combination ticket of both the grounds of the Dhamekh stupa and the Archaeological Museum of Sarnath. So, I had to go buy another entrance ticket. The rest of the details are written above under Archaeological Museum of Sarnath.

After a very quick browsing of the Archeological Museum of Sarnath, I headed back to my hotel. Along the way I bought some food stuff.

Food stuff I bought on the way back to the hotel.

When buying, I usually don’t know what the food item is. I just point and buy. Same as these food stuff, except for the samosa in the top left side, I didn’t know what the rest are. Do you do the same? Or must you know what the food items are before buying or trying?

I just ate the food from the packet below. So, I can tell you now, that it is a fried bread fritter and a vegetable patty.

I bought the triangular dough fritter and the vegetable patty from this stall.

After I have eaten the food from the above packet, I would update here.

Update: Inside the packet on the top had a samosa (triangle pyramid shaped) and a rectangular shaped item. The samosa had potato curry filling inside. The rectangular shaped item was sweet. Syrup is between the layers of the folds. A bit too sweet for me, I didn’t finish this sweet treat, even though it was quite tasty.

At about 6pm, I decided to only take 100rupees out and have a chai again, and see what else to buy. 100rupees is about S$1.50.

Bought the biscuits and a small packet of chips for 40 rupees and 5 mosquito coils for 15rupees.
The last 45 rupees was spent on a chai and bread spread with some paste. I was a bit concerned about what the paste was but decided to just go ahead and get it.

The paste has a sweet milky taste to it. I really hope nothing goes wrong tomorrow. The paste was just sitting in a covered pan.

That’s how far a 100rupees got me.

Sarnath is a small community revolving around the Dhamekh Stupa. I enjoyed my short stay here. My only gripe is that because it is a small community, food options and shops are limited. Let’s see how it goes when I stay the next night in Varanasi, night of 4th November 2024, along Hinduism’s scared Ganges river. Tonight, night of 3rd November 2024, I would be chilling the rest of the night in Sarnath.